Stitch is a needle puncture movement from the top of the fabric penetrate down then back up, it is one-rotation motion. So stitches can be interpreted as stitches or needle punctures.
In general, embroidery stitches divided into hand or manual embroidery and stitches produced by embroidery machine. In this article, we will discuse the embroidery machine stitches.
TYPE OF EMBROIDERY STITCH
To create a design, many types and variations of stitches can be combined. Embroidery machine stitches are generally divided into three categories:
1. Satin Stich
Satin stitch is stitches that are widely used in text or as border. Satin stitches move zigzagically, ie left-right or top-down. Seen from the side it will seem a little protruding from the surface of the embroidered material and produce a satiny feel when it touch.
Satin stitches consist of various variations, namely:
a. Programmed satin is a patterned or motif satin stitch. We can make these motifs according to our wishes, for example: circular motives, diamonds, waves, and so on.
b. Jagged satin is a jagged satin stitch, whose stitch length varies according to the range we condition. Jagged satin is widely used to give the impression of natural and hairy; for example embroidery on the faces of bears, tigers, and others.
c. Star is a satin stitch that rotates at one center point and forms a star.
2. Tatami Stitches
Tatami stitches or sometimes called interlocking stitch are used to fill fields. The widest area of embroidery design generally uses tatami stitches. Tatami is a type of floor coating mat commonly used in traditional Japanese homes. It is this woven Japanese tatami that inspires the mention of tatami stitches.
Tatami stitches also consist of several variations:
a. Tatami are horizontally grooved, perpendicular, sloping grooves, very sloping grooves. The sloping of the tatami stitch can be adjusted and will produce different light effects.
b. Programmed fill or motif fill is a patterned tatami stitch and the motif can be programmed according to our wishes, for example: heart motif, diamond motif, wave motif, and so on.
3. Running stitches
Running stitches are stitches in line. Running stitches often used as field boundaries making outlines of images or creating very small text where satin can't do it.
Running stitches also have variations called programmed run or motif run, which are patterned running stitches and their motives can be programmed according to our wishes, for example: triangle motifs, round motifs, "****" motifs, "++++" motives, etc.
Each embroidery design has the characteristics of an attractive light effect. For example, a logo with the text "Maestro" on the blue fabric. So what type of stitches should be applied, how much the slope of the frame is so that we can choose tatami stitches to fill the blue field first, then embroider the text "Maestro" above the blue field with satin stitches or running stitches.
To make you more understanding, try to learn the types of stitches in the design example of picture.
QUALITY OF EMBROIDERY RESULT CAN BE DIFFERENT
In general, all embroidery machines can automatically embroider the three basic stitches. However, the quality of the embroidery results can different significantly; some are very subtle, some are less subtle. The difference between the results of the various brands of machines lies in the precision of the movement of embroidery with needle puncture, which finally can determine the softness of the results of the embroidery and the selling value.
What factor cause the difference in precision between the various brands of the engine? The main ones are the components their used, such as a super-precision (more expensive) motor or an ordinary motor; what system is used for stir the field of embroidery or pantograph, engine vibration, the stability of the needle mechanism, and the software implanted into the embroidery machine.
VARIOUS VARIATIONS OF EMBROIDERY STITCHES
Outside the three basic stitches above, there are still various other embroidery stitches :
a. Chain Stitches
b. Loop Embroidery like carpet with standing threads
c. Stitches that use variations of accessories such as cord with zigzag stitches, ribbon or tape, wrinkled or frill ribbon, threaded or coil stitches;
d. Sequin embroidery, etc.
Various stitches of this variation can only be produced using special embroidery machines, such as the Tajima emboridery machine.
Density of Stitches
To complete the knowledge of stitches, the author explains about one important variable, that is density of stitches. Density in a design is one of the important factors that must be known in order to produce good quality embroidery. Density is a variable that can be regulated and manipulated through embroidery software.
The tenuous density of the stitches causes the embroidery to appear tenuous and of poor quality, and reduces the number of stitches of the design. Example a design that should have 5,000 stitches is stretched so that it only becomes 4,000 stitches. If 5,000 stitches are done in 5 minutes, then 4,000 stitches will only be done in 4 minutes, got done faster. Certainly with the reduction of these stitches the embroidery machine will produce more quantities.This is often "forced" to be done by an embroidery factory in order to pursue low prices offered by the order giver. Now, you understood the reason why many clothes sold wholesale have quality embroidery with a tenuous density.
Density of the stitches that are too tight also not recommended, it can cause a broken needle and thread due to friction that is too tight and make wrinkles on the fabric. The more often the thread breaks, the quality of embroidery gets worse and the machine productivity gets lower.
What is the optimum density of embroidery stitches? The answer depends on the thickness of the thread, the material used, and the design character. Example you use a standard embroidery thread measuring 120 / 2d with a not thin fabric , then the density can be adjusted through embroidery software on 4 points (= 0.4mm, the distance between lines of embroidery stitches). The thinner the embroidery thread you use, the more density it needs to be tightened or raised; vice versa. Also adjust the density according to the fabric and design size. In general, the thinner the fabric and the smaller the design, the density needs to be stretched.